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Mininum-temperature - was does it mean?
This statement is according to a VERY SHORT minimum in temperature, that a specific plant is able zu stand without beiing seriously damaged. The declaration means, that the temperature may occur for some hours during some nights, but not through the whole winter. Desert-Plants for example can stand shortly temperatures far below zero, because they are used to it from their natural habitat, where the nights can be quite frosty. But the can't tolerante temperatures below zero a whole winter! The declarations, which you find on our homepage, refer to the minimum temperature, that pot-plants tolerate. Exceptions are plants, which are recommended to be durably planted into the garden soil. For them, the minimum temperature refers only to the planted individual, not for pot-plants!
Whow can protection elevate the minimum-temperature for pot-plants?
Pot-plants can stand lower temperatures, if their roots are wrapped in cocos-matresses or similar protection-material (see below). The effect is, that the frost can't crawl extremely fast into the middle of the pot - it slows the process. Wrappings around the crown protect the branches against cold wind, wetness and winter-sun (see below). But: The wrappings can't -heat- the plant, because they don't have a source of energy! Therefore the success is limited and can only gain a handful of degrees. Important to understand is, that the wrapping-materials like gaze, bamboo- or willow-matresses themselves don't isolate. They are just the frame. The isolation itself is gained through the material, that you fill in: dry leaves, straw, hay, styropor-flakes or similar. The air between their single pieces makes the isolating effect. The drier the infill stays, the higher is the isolation. But: Never wrap the whole plant with plastic! The material must -breathe- and let through some light.
Can protection raise the frost-tolerance of exotic garden plants?
The main factor is anchored in the genetic-code of each species. So any help can just change some degrees, just like other parameters: the healthyness of the plant, it's age, a propper location, an optimum soil etc. The first aid is to cover the rooted area with a thick layer of autumn-leaves. If you install a simple rabbit-fence around four wooden sticks around the plant, you can fill up the area with a higher leave-layer, which is recommended e.g. for Japanese Bananas. The second aid is the protection against the winter sun. If the night was really frosty, the bark has cooled down similarly. The next morning, when the sun rises, the sun-rays warm up the bark quickly. By this, the bark can tear. To avoid serious cuts, one can wrap the crown with gaze, special shadow-nets or hang conifer-branches into the crown to provide shadow. To remember: This has nothing to do with -warming- the plant, but with sun-protection. |
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